Lajvar Big Wall Ultimate Guide
Lajvar big wall- iran
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Iran’s third major big wall, Lajvar Big Wall, is a great climbing destination after the country’s epic Alam Kuh Big Wall and Bisotun Big Wall. But Lajvar is probably less presented compared to the other two. So, this ultimate guide to Lajvar Big Wall will give you all you need to know about it and help you have a more amazing rock climbing experience there. With 350 meters of height and a variety of 1-day routes, this granite wall has all that is needed for a challenging adventure. Stay with me to find about it, its routes, and the practical tips for its ascent.

Lajvar Big Wall

Iran’s third major wall climbing destination, Lajvar Big Wall, is on a mountain of the same name in Markazi Province. The mountain has a summit altitude of 2800 meters and the wall has a height of almost 350 meters. The granite rocks of this wall make an ascent difficult. It’s interesting to know that Lajvar means tough, stubborn and resilient. Some believe it is Lajvar’s difficulty of ascent and routes that have won it this name. This wall has long been attracting a large number of climbers because of its high difficulty routes and the fact that it can challenge any rock climber’s capabilities. Yet, beside its difficult routes, Lajvar also has simpler routes. It is this variety of difficulty levels and featuring routes for both free climbing and aid climbing that give Lajvar Big Wall its popularity among rock climbers. The routes are generally one-day routes and you can choose one of them based on your style and capabilities. Stay with me for more details on these routes.

the view from bigwall - Lajvar Big Wall Ultimate Guide
The up view from Lajvar biq wall

The Routes on Lajvar Big Wall

Lajvar’s northern wall includes 3 ascent routes and its eastern big wall presents 14 different routes. These routes have been named by the Mountaineering Association of the city of Arak (the capital of Markazi Province) as thus:

  1. Faraz: aid climbing- 5 pitches- A1,A2
  2. Didar: free climbing- 5 pitches- 5.10 C
  3. Tavallod: free climbing- 4 pitches- 5.10 A
  4. Shakhak– free climbing- 3 pitches- 5.9
  5. Sadegh: aid climbing/free climbing- 9 pitches- 5.10 B A2
  6. Elham: free climbing- 9 pitches – anchoring
  7. Orooj: aid climbing/free climbing- 3 pitches- 5.8 A2
  8. Parvaz: aid climbing/free climbing- 9 pitches- 5.10  B.A2
  9. Tanooreh: free climbing- 6 pitches- 5.9
  10. Sokoot: free climbing- 5 pitches- 5.10 C
  11. Karim: free climbing- 3 pitches- 5.11 C
  12. Gordeh: free climbing- 8 pitches- 5.8
  13. Kamran: free climbing- 5 pitches- 5.10 CD
  14. Shaghayegh: free climbing- 3 pitches- 5.10 B

Lajvar Big Wall Ascent Guide

To have a wall climbing experience on Lajvar Big Wall, you’ll have to find your way to Arak and from there to Eskan Village (35 km). From Eskan, an hour of hiking will get you to Lajvar. Right on the foot of the wall, you’ll find a hut that gives you the chance to be able to stay around Lajvar and try its different routes. Pick one of the routes that best suits your style and skills. Most climbers spend a night and experience climbing 2 routes of different difficulty levels. Remember that there is no water available at the hut or around it. So you need to take enough water with you. Plus, an hour of hiking will also get you to the nearby Chot flank. The flank difficulty is 5.9 and to ascend it, you’ll need to add one day to your schedule.

A view of Chout ridge from Lajvar bigwall - Lajvar Big Wall Ultimate Guide
Chot flank from Lajvar big wall

The Best Season

The best time for a climbing experience on Lajvar Big Wall is spring and fall. The extreme cold of winter and the extreme heat of summer in the region makes an ascent in these seasons difficult. For a better first ascent, you’d better be accompanied with a local climber or a professional who’s ascended the routes before.

Lajvar bigwall in winter - Lajvar Big Wall Ultimate Guide
Lajvar big wall covered with snow in winter

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Comments

Rene Robert
June 23, 2022
I'm thinking about a mixed program for Lajvar and Alam's northern big wall. Can you help me? Thank you.

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